Egypt Journal — dvoyage

Egypt

Journal 2024

Landing in Cairo
First Sight - Pyramids of Giza

Cairo Necropolis, The City of the Dead

Menkaure - Kafre - Khufu, Pyramids of Giza

The Citadel of Cairo
07 June 2024, Cairo

Second day started with a walk in the city of Cairo. We entered the citadel and we were transported to a different era. We were on top of an ancient fortress, perched high on Mokattam Hill, from where we could see the entire city below. It had a beige tone, almost as if someone had applied a filter to it. We could spot distant calls to prayer, merging seamlessly with the lively chatter of visitng tourists around.

The grandeur of the courtyards, intricate arches and ceilings of Muhammad Ali Mosque, soaring minarets... it was just the beginning of what Egypt was up to unfold for us.

Sultan Hassan Mosque
07 June 2024, Cairo

We entered the Sultan Hassan Mosque during prayer time. It was overwhelming to see so many people performing their prayers through the cor

ridors and the main chamber.

High ceiling, huge tall space of the mosque held in the silence at the same time as it was accomodating the chant of the prayers.
Each door, window, jali was intricately crafted with geometric patterns and calligraphy.

The main chamber had a high dome ceiling, light enterede through the jali windows and doors casting a delicate pattern on the ground.

The Great Pyramids of Giza: Khufu
08 June 2024, Giza

Pyramid of Khufu was the tallest and the biggest pyramid in the Giza complex. The entry to this pyramid is elevated from the ground with series of high risers. We entered inside and moved in a narrow passage to reach some steps leading to the ascending passageway. This passage was a steep one where we were required to bend down and almost crawl up. It was narrow to accomodate only one person to move in at a time. We saw people gasping for breath, sweating water as they moved down from the pyramid. I waited there almost for about 15 minutes contemplating on whether I should try - whether I should not ... kept asking each one how manageble it was to go up the pyramid. I got all mixed answers. One of my friends had already gone up and I was not sure if I would be able to catch up with her. After gathering my mind together, I decided to climb in with a couple of people and started conversing with them on the journey up, comforting myself that somewhere I will meet my friend. The climb was a good 5-7 minute journey to reach the grand gallery. The grand gallery was tall and narrow with 5-6 metal rungs to reach a platform to start the ascend on top where there were few more rungs to climb to reach the passage to reach the top chamber. I met my friend at the top of the grand gallery and I walked in the main chamber and out.

The Great Pyramids of Giza: Khafre
08 June 2024, Giza

With all the stress in my mind, as I was navigating the pyramids, I somewhere was glad that only two pyramids had access inside. hehehe... the pyramid of Khafre was closed for entry when we went there. It is the second tallest and the second largest in the complex. We could see the leftover fine white limestone cladding at the pinnacle.

The Great Pyramids of Giza: Menkaure
08 June 2024, Giza

While I was reading and preparing the itinerary for this trip, I had come across several accounts of people entering the pyramids. After reading those, I was very sure I am not going to get inside one. I had made up my mind that I will stay outside while my friends visit the interiors. We reached the entrance of the complex and ended up purchasing tickets for all including the entry to the small and big pyramid. They said it would take about 10 minutes to get in the small one and the bigger one would be a 20 minute journey. I stood at the entrance, waited for a while wondering if I should enter in. Seeing my friend who is claustrophobic, and yet comfortable in the space. I decided to walk inside, I thought speeding down the ramp quickly, so as to shorten my time inside. Each step deeper into the pyramid was a step further back in time.

Tombs of Meres Ankh
08 June 2024, Giza

Located in the Giza complex along with the three pyramids is this Tomb of Meres Ankh. We opted for a horse cart to move around and travel in the complex. It would have been impossible otherwise to do so in the 40 degree celsius heat. The distances were huge, the sun was scorching. Mahmoud (Rider) and Missy (Horse) were our companions throught our journey in the sands. They moved so comfortably through terrain. Mahmoud gave us Egyptian names as well, Rupali was Sarah, Priya was Ahmet and I was called Hanan.

Great Sphinx of Giza
08 June 2024, Giza

Me along with Rupali Gupte and Priya Sen accompanying the great Sphinx.

From the domestic flight entering Cairo, we could spot many more pyramids. All brought back the memory of the history of architecture discussions during the architecture course. It was great to identify these structures after studying them about 14 years back in time.

Stepped Pyramid of Djoser, Badrshein, Giza

Mosque of al-Zahir Baybars
08 June 2024, Cairo

Khan el-Khalili Market
08 June 2024, Cairo

Khan el-Khalili, a bustling market with people, shops, restaurant, street seller, street performers. We spent an entire evening here, shopping, eating and enjoying the life around.

Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa
09 June 2024, Alexandria

We took a day tour to Alexandria, booked an uber and took a 3/4 hour drive from Cairo. Our uber rider agreed to be there for the entire day with us. It was convenient for us as we were going to be hoping from one place to the other. From the bustling city of Alexandria, we first descended down into the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa. As we descended down step by step into this necropolis the air was getting thicker with anticipation, and the surrounding streets started fading into the background. Narrow steep spiral staircase went winding deeper into the ground. The light was getting dimmer and the temperature changed. Each chamber has elaborate detailed carvings and fresco work.

The Hall of Caracalla had a haunting collection of bones and skulls.

Ancient Roman Theater
09 June 2024, Alexandria

The Ancient Roman Theater in Alexandria is a relic tucked away amid the modern urban landscape. The theater, with its semi-circular marble seating, stood impressively intact, evoking the grandeur of ancient performances.

Cavea (Seating Area) is arranged in a semi-circle formation. The seats are constructed from white marble.

Adjacent to the theater, we saw remnants of Roman baths, classrooms and villas.

Cavafy Museum
09 June 2024, Alexandria

Alexandria Bibliotheca
09 June 2024, Alexandria

After the amazing fish lunch at Kadoura, a seafood restaurant along the corniche, we headed to the Bibliotheca Alexandria. The library is a disc set in ground. A grand tall lobby of the library leads one to the stepped reading hall. The tall ceiling has several skylights letting in the natural day light. Tall columns fan out at the top to hold the tilted disc roof.

Qaitbay Citadel
09 June 2024, Alexandria

We walked along the corniche to reach its tip where the Qaitbay Citadel was located. This citadel is located on the site of the ancient light house at Alexandria. The towering high walls stand against the lashing waves of the sea. The fort walls were punctuated with slits for archers. We entered the central courtyard which was largish and was surrounded by deep corridors on all four sides.

Corniche
09 June 2024, Alexandria

Walk along the corniche is Alexandria in the evenings was a pleasant one. We saw several locals engaged in their daily routienes. People were walking, jogging, having tea, enjoying the sea, I spotted several people from the neighbouring buildings along the corniche enjoying a quiet evening watching people and the sea from the comfort of their homes.

Our arrival in Luxor was greated with a beautiful sight of river Nile. The long stretch of this river was also visible from the plane. Early morning the next day, we were greeted by hot air balloons floating. These hot air balloons go up earlier in the morning at sun rise and decend down through the early mornings. It was a moment of thrill to see each balloon rising up as they were lit and slowly drifting away with the wind.

Luxor Temple
10 June 2024, Luxor

We visited Luxor Temple in the late afternoons on the first day at Luxor. The towering obelisks and colossal statues of Ramses II etched the silhouettes against the evening sky. The entrance of the temple was marked by a grand pylon adorned with intricate carvings. The Great Court of Ramses II had massive columns, arranged in double rows, soaring overhead, their capitals resembled lotus blossoms. We walked further inside to reach the Colonnade of Amenhotep III, a longish corridor, lined with towering columns and flanked by statues of the pharaoh leading to the vast Hypostyle Hall with a high roof supported by 32 colossal columns. The inner most sanctum temple is the Sanctuary of Amun, were we could spot the faded colours of the walls. In front of the Luxor Temple and on the Axis of the Karnak Temple is the Avenue of the Sphinxes. As the moon set in, the entire temple complex lit up in the warm yellow light.

Valley of Kings
11 June 2024, Luxor

Next day we set out early in the morning to dodge the afternoon sun. We were warned of the unberable and dehydrating heat of the dessert. We headed to the renowned archaeological site, the Valley of the Kings. It is nestled on the west bank of the Nile near Luxor, it was once a burial ground for pharaohs and powerful nobles. The valley has vast expansive rugged terrain with numerous hidden tombs scooped in the high stone mountains.

We bagan our journey with the Tomb of Rameses IV, as we decended down on the steepish ramp in the tomb, the air started becoming cooler. The walls of the antechamber were adorned with detailed scenes of the pharaoh performing rituals and offerings to the gods. The colors were well-preserved and we could spot rich blues, reds, and golds.

The main burial chamber housed the large sarcophagus, the room was richly decorated with intricate hieroglyphs and colorful frescoes depicting scenes from the Book of the Dead which also narrated the pharaoh’s journey through the afterlife, his encounters with deities, and the protective spells intended to ensure his safe passage to the afterlife.

The ceiling of the burial chamber was painted with astronomical charts with detailed depictions of constellations and the night sky.

Next in the Valley of the Kings, we entered the tomb of Rameses IX. The entrance of the tomb was a large, well-preserved doorway leading into a descending corridor. The walls of the corridor were adorned with vivid scenes from the Book of the Dead, depicting Ramses IX’s journey to the afterlife. The relief work was well preserved and we could spot the bright intact colours. We spotted Horus, the Egyptian sky god and a pharaoh of Egypt who is also known as the god of kingship, healing, protection, the sun, and the sky. The First Pillared Hall was supported by four massive columns. Each column was intricately decorated with scenes of Ramses IX making offerings to the gods. The ceiling was adorned with depictions of the night sky, stars, and constellations. Continuing deeper into the tomb, we reached the second pillared hall, this one was more elaborately decorated, the walls depicted various gods and goddesses, including Osiris, Anubis (god of funerary rites, protector of graves, and guide to the underworld), and Hathor (goddess of the sky, of women, and of fertility and love). The main burial chamber has a vaulted high ceiling with the stone sarcophagus.

As we came out of each of the tombs we were greeted by the scrotching sun. The entrance to Tutankhamun’s tomb is a simple stairway leading down. The side walls were sparsely decorated. However, this was the only tomb with a well preserved mummy.

We entered the final Tomb of Rameses V/VI. The first chamber, initially was for Ramses V, however it was later adapted by Ramses VI. The ceiling displayed Nuut, the sky goddess, arching over with stars and constellations.

The intermediate hall and antechamber had detailed carvings and paintings from the Amduat (book), illustrating Ra's nighttime journey.

The main burial chamber had a tall ceiling depicting Nuut and the constellations, surrounded by scenes from the Book of the Day and the Book of the Night. The main chamber has remnants of the broken tomb casing and the sarcophagus.

Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut
11 June 2024, Luxor

The temple of Hatshepsut had a long causeway of steps and ramp leading to each of the terraces.

By the time we finished visiting the Valley of the Kings, it was about 11 o’clock. The sun was on top, and was almost frying us in its heat. From here we headed to the Temple of Hatshepsut. By this time, I was feeling very drained and was struggling to keep my eyes open in the sun. All the sites in Egypt have a large foreground and are placed at a distance from the main entry. Luckily there was a golf cart to take us till the entry of the temple. I wanted to run in and stay in the interiors of the temple. The sun was so hard and strong.

Temple of Karnak
11 June 2024, Luxor

The temple of Karnak is dedicated to the god Amun-Ra. We enetered the first grand couryard through the towering pylon.
This open space was flanked by colossal statues of pharaohs and rows of sphinxes. The courtyard also contained the Temple of Ramses III, a smaller yet detailed structure.

Moving deeper into the complex, we entered the Hypostyle Hall. This vast hall, was filled with more than 100 massive columns arranged in 16 rows. Each column was intricately carved with hieroglyphs and reliefs depicting scenes of religious rituals, battles, and offerings to the gods.

Beyond the Hypostyle Hall, we saw two tall obelisks.

Banana Island & Corniche
11 June 2024, Luxor

We took a boat ride to the Banana Island. We sailed through the River Nile for about an hour to reach this island. Ali was our caption on the boat. Along with his father he was so used to handling the boat in the moving waters. We had some fresh from the fields banana and fresh fruit juice on the island. We touched the waters of River Nile, it is said that if you touch the waters you will come back to this place again.

Dendera Temple of Hathor
12 June 2024, Qena

We shifted our plan from Aswan to Qena. Aswan required two days minimum for the visit and reaching the main dam was also a bit long from Luxor. Instead we visited the Dendera Temple complex, home to the Temple of Hathor. It is one of the best-preserved and most intricately decorated temples, amongst the ones we visited. It is located on the west bank of the Nile, near Qena about 1.5 hours from Luxor.

We entered the temple complex through a massive gateway and a large stone wall compound. The entrance led into a grand hypostyle hall supported by 24 towering columns, each topped with capitals shaped like the head of Hathor, adorned with her characteristic cow ears and a headdress. The ceiling of the hall was adorned with astronomical scenes. Each forming a longish narrative scroll along the length of the hall.
Moving deeper into the inner chambers and shrines, we saw the detailed narrative relief drawings on the walls. We entered an inner chamber which was a small short narrow singing room for queen Hathor. We kept searching for the astronomical ceiling which was now replaced by a replica. We climbed the stairs, to reach the roof, where we found the famous Dendera Zodiac, a circular relief depicting the constellations and celestial bodies.

The Hanging Church
13 June 2024, Cairo

The Hanging Church (Saint Virgin Mary's Coptic Orthodox Church), is situated above a gatehouse of the remnants of the Roman Babylon Fortress, which was part of the ancient fortress walls. The church’s nave, with its grand wooden ceiling designed to resemble Noah’s Ark. The interior featured three aisles separated by marble columns.

Ibn Tulun Mosque
13 June 2024, Cairo

Ibn Tulun Mosque is one of Cairo’s oldest preserved mosques. The mosque has a large courtyard surrounded by arcaded porticos with massive brick walls surrounding it. From the top of the spiral miranet one could see panoramic views of Cairo.

Gayer Anderson Museum
13 June 2024, Cairo

Tucked away in the Sayeda Zeinab district, just adjacent to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun, the Gayer Anderson museum is housed in two adjoining historic homes: the Bayt al-Kritliyya and the Bayt Amna bint Salim. The house is adorned by mashrabiya screens, wooden latticework, and furniture, stained glass windows. Each room was filled with multiple artefacts which took us back in time to imagine their everyday life around these objects.

Museum of Islamic Art
13 June 2024, Cairo

The Egyptian Museum
14 June 2024, Cairo

The highlight of the Egyptian Museum was the tomb and the sacophagus of Tutankhamun. The entrance to the section was marked by detailed notes on the unearthing of the tomb by Howard Carter in 1922. As we entered in the blank room, the centre piece held our eye, the golden funerary mask of Tutankhamun. The mask was crafted from solid gold and inlaid with semi-precious stones, and glass. The gallery displayed the innermost coffin, also made of gold, along with two outer coffins, each intricately decorated with hieroglyphics and depictions of gods. Also, exhibited here were a series of alabaster canopic jars that held the king’s internal organs.

We took the flight back to Mumbai in the evening, with our minds still overwhelmed with the expansive history of the Egyptian Gods, Goddesses, Kings and Queens.

Landing in Mumbai
. Fin .

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